Baitcasting Reel Reviews

I spent the last few days testing a new Redington Delta 11-12 fly reel and their new CPX 10 wt, 9 foot fly rod. I spooled the Delta with a Teeny Pro Series floating 10 wt Permit line designed by Bruce Chard and Jim Teeny. Well the Delta and the CPX performed flawlessly in part because they are both very good pieces of equipment and partly because of the Teeny Fly Line.

If you are an experienced fly angler you know that having a balanced combo is a must. There are many new advancements in fly fishing gear and it's sometimes difficult to keep up with all of them. As a fly line manufacturer, Jim Teeny has no choice to not only keep up, but to be a leader in the high tech fly line world. And believe me, there is plenty of worthy competition willing to throw big development bucks at new projects to get an edge. We as anglers benefit from this but more importantly is the 'how' Teeny Fly Lines stays ahead of the competition.

Jim Teeny, an excellent world class fly angler, realized that there is a wealth of knowledge available to be found in the great guides from around the world and he works with them to get their insight as to what characteristics would make a fly line great for a specific species of fish. Over the years Jim Teeny has developed some very outstanding fly lines for just about any kind of fly fishing that you want to do and for any species of fish. Fantastic in itself as it is, even better is the performance that he has achieved in his fly lines which leads me to the F-10 Permit line that I used in my testing.

Lefty Kreh told me that you cast with your line hand and that being said, it makes it all about the line and your timing. Precise timing requires a balanced combo and the right fly line for the situation and that is what Teeny brings to the table. I found that the F-10 Permit line is fantastic for throwing big feathers great distances which is required for permit and tarpon alike. Equally important is accuracy that you won't achieve with a lesser line.

Another important characteristic that I like about the Teeny Fly Lines and have done so for many years, is the behavior of the line finish. I use the word behavior because the elements that I fish in can change how a line behaves or casts when it is very hot here in the tropics. I get into the backcountry bayous where the springs well up from the ground at a cool 60 degrees or so. It's 90 degrees outside and the line is going to be subjected to many temperature changes for example. The line never became gummy or sticky and this allows for much better line control and casting. Loop control and roll over are essential elements to good casting and this line is no exception in its performance.

If you are looking for an exceptionally fantastic performing line I would strongly suggest that you try this line from Teeny Fly Lines. By the way, the price is an equally great value too. Check out all of Teeny Fly Lines at www.JimTeeny.com you'll be glad that you did.

Czech Nymph Fly Selection

There is one essential thing that the fly fisherman will need when czech nymphing, that is heavy flies! Usually using a team of 3 flies on droppers with the point fly being the heaviest fly.

Cased Caddis - The Prey

Caddis Flies are widespread across Europe wherever water is available, either static or running. However, the adult is a strong flyer and can move some distance from ponds, streams and rivers, especially as it is attracted to light. However it is the larvae form that is a key part of the diet for fish such as trout. The larvae which make a "case" in which to live usingsmall stones, sand, pieces of leaves and all glued together with a silk lining inside. The silk is spun with a secretion from labial glands (around the mouth) like moth larvae. When full-grown the larva pupates in the case which stops being mobile and may be glued down to a rock.

The cased forms feed on vegetation whilst the caseless forms tend to be either carnivorous or detritivores. The predatory ones are those free living. The web-spinning, caseless larvae may create a silk tube in which to live whilst those in moving water spin the web between stones. This web may trap small invertebrates drifting with the current. This invertebrate drift, as it is known, is an abundant source of food as the current constantly dislodges animals living on the bottom of streams and rivers. Many of these caseless caddis larvae are associated with particular speeds of flow. However, much of what they catch will just be drifting detritus and other organic particulate matter on which the larva will feed (hence detritivore). Some particulate matter will be drifting plankton. Those larvae in especially fast flowing water, e.g. Hydropsyche, will have toughened upper parts to the thoracic segments (thickened external skeleton is refered to as being sclerotised). The larvae have their abdomens safely in the silk tube but the front section of the body protruding into the current. This sclerotisation may be an adaptation to protect them from small stones and other material hitting them.

It is this caddis that is one of our primary fishing imitations when czech nymphing. Below are different imitations that can be used in descending weight order, with the heavyweights of the czech nymphing world described first.

Czech Bottle Fly - Super Heavyweight Flies

Czech bottle nymphs are the "bruisers" of the fly fishing world. Designed to hold botom in the fastest of waters a czech bottle nymph is a uniquely designed fishing fly. The Bottle Fly is a complete fly, designed in the shape of a bottle and is available in 2.2gm, 3.4gm, 4.4gm and even 5.5gm weights. The fly is manufactured from pre-made moulds which are tied very simply, the bottle is rolled in glue and sand is rolled onto the fly, a hackle is then simply tied to the front. The finished fly is identical to a caddis in its nest described above. The beauty of this fly being that it will hold bottom or take a team of flies to the bottom of the fastest of rivers. We use this for sea trout frequently as it can be used to hold a snake fly low in the fastest of waters!

Traditional Czech Nymphs - Heavy Flies

These are the more "traditional" czech nymphs used around the world. These are still a heavy fly, often tungsten weighted to keep the fly low in the water. Czech nymphs are available in a range of colours, from pea green to cream and red, from hares ear and amber to sparkle and orange. They key with these colours is actually that the czech nymphing technique is forcing the trout to make a rapid decision, fast water with stimulating colours is often deadly.

A technique I frequently use is to use a heavy fly, often a bottle fly on the point with a natural colours czech nymph on one dropper and a nymphs with colours on the second dropper. Using this technique you can see what the trout are eating before focussing on specific colours.

Goldhead / Beadhead Flies

These are the "lightweight flies" used in czech nymphing. The Goldhead or Beadhead fly has a small bead which gives it weight, ideal in slower rivers when czech nymphing and frequently used as an alternative dropper.

Standard Nymphs

Do not forget to truly work a team of droppers, there is nothing to stop the fly fisherman using a standard caddis, nymph, stonefly or other fly on a dropper when czech nymhing, the key is that it needs to be kept low and close to the river bottom.

Montana Trout Fly Fishing Guide - Things to Know Before Going Fly Fishing for Trout in Montana

Montana is home to some of the best trout fly fishing in the United States. People come from all over the world to fish its legendary waters. Some fly fishermen seek the expertise of a Montana trout fly fishing guide while others are determined to go at it alone. Regardless of how you do it there are certain things that you must be prepared for. This is a quick guide to Montana trout fly fishing that is aimed at helping ensure a successful trip to one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Even if a person was to fly fish Montana for a year and never catch a fish, the trip would still be a success. You cannot believe the sheer beauty of this place until you have been there. The wildlife alone is enough to get people coming back for more; throw a few 20 inch trout into the mix and you are in for one of the best trips of your life. To make this trip as successful as possible, there are items that you will not want to leave behind and situations that you will want to be ready for. Read on to get a general idea of what you need to be ready for, the essential items that you need to bring, and ideas on how to make this a great trip, and hopefully a successful one at that.

Where to Fly Fish in Montana

Montana is one of the biggest states in the U.S. and is home to the Rocky Mountains and other massive mountain ranges that feed thousands of rivers, streams and lakes. With all of this water, it can be a daunting task to pick a particular body of water to fish. I have had to decide where to fish on several occasions, and I'll tell you, it is not easy. For the most part, all you have to do is find some cold clear water and you can bet there are trout in it, probably big trout. From the northwest to the southeast corners, and everywhere in between, fly fishing for trout can be good. A good portion of the Montana is not so mountainous and more so desert, but even in this 2/3 of the state, an experienced fly fisherman can find big trout if he or she knows where to look. This is an area where a Montana trout fly fishing guide can come in handy.

Southwest Montana is by far the most popular part of the state for fly fishing. It is home to some incredible rivers that are fed from the numerous mountain ranges that can be seen in all directions. This area is unique in that a person can fish many different bodies of water in a short trip. From one blue ribbon trout river you can drive over a mountain pass and be fishing in another blue ribbon river in an hour or two. Here is a quick list of the rivers that you have to choose from in SW Montana:

1. Madison
2. Big Hole
3. Bitterroot
4. Ruby
5. Rock Creek
6. Beaverhead
7. Jefferson
8. Yellowstone
9. Gallatin
10. Missouri

All of these rivers hold a large number of big trout, but are just a few of the bigger named rivers that Montana has to offer. It takes many trips to Montana to really determine a favorite river. A person could fish Montana for a lifetime and still have new rivers to fish.

When to Fly Fish Montana

I have been to Montana and experienced both great and not so great fly fishing. Whenever the conditions are right though, the fishing has consistently been on the great side. A good way to better your chances of experiencing good fishing is to time your vacation around both weather and insect hatches. Most of the hatches are dependent on weather though, so if you come during the time of year that weather is most predicable (summer), your chances of having a successful trip will increase.

Here is a quick break down on each season and what can be expected.

• Winter: Cold! This is the time of year to book a trip to do some tropical fishing. Many of the rivers in Montana freeze all the way across or are made up of big dangerous ice shelves. There is some fishing in some tail waters near the dams, but unless you are a local, the fishing is not worth going out of you war to be freezing. If you do come this time of year, bring your skis, the skiing is better than the fishing.
• Spring: The fish this time of year are less fearful than they get once they have had a few hooks in their mouth a little later in the year, so great fishing can happen. The problem becomes the water flow and clarity. There is usually a small time frame when the snow and ice clear in the valleys, but remains in the mountains, making for clear water. This is a good time to fish but the window of opportunity is very small. If you can get away with short notice, as soon as you here the fishing is good, you'd better get on it because as soon as the snow starts melting and the spring rains start coming down, the rivers will rise and clarity will drop.
• Summer: This is the most popular time to be fly fishing Montana's trout rivers. The temperatures are comfortable and the river levels drop and become clear. The Salmon Fly hatch is the first hatch to really start off the season. It happens usually after June 10th. This is a busy time of year for a Montana trout fly fishing guide, but the trout love to eat these significantly sized insects. From the middle of June and throughout the rest of the summer, there will be hatches of either caddis, mayflies, hoppers and many more.
• Fall: After the summer crowds leave, the fall gives way to cooler temperatures and less crowded rivers. This is a favorite time of year for many hardcore fly fishermen. The fish are ready to fatten up for the winter and some big insects begin hatching. The main attraction this time of year is the Fall Caddis hatch. These supersized caddis are a trout's main entree and can be taken with ease off the top with large floating flies such as stimulators and caddis in size 6 - 10.

Being Your Own Montana Trout Fly Fishing Guide

For an experienced fly fisherman, Montana can be effectively fished without the help of a guide. This will certainly cut down on the budget, but is only advised for those that are proficient at casting and working flies. There is a huge learning curve in fly fishing and if you are not over that curve, then it will be beneficial to have someone to help you out, either a friend or a guide. Before you go, you will want to know what you will need as for as gear and fly patterns. At the link at the end of this article there is an insect hatch chart for Montana that can help you decide what flies to take. Another good way is to stop at a fly shop on the river you will be fishing and ask. Most of these people spend a lot of time on the river and will be able to steer you in the right direction. You may also want to ask them if they have any guides available as sometimes you can book a trip last minute for a discounted price if the guide has nothing else to do. If you are going to fly fish Montana on your own, then make sure you read the gear guide below to make sure you have all you will need.

Hiring a Montana Trout Fly Fishing Guide

One of the best ways to ensure a successful fly fishing trip to Montana is to hire a Montana Trout Fly Fishing Guide. It is amazing how much knowledge most of these guys have after putting fly fisherman on trout every day.

Here is a list of the benefits that a fly fishing guide can offer:

• Knowing the insect hatches: Yes, Montana is full of big trout, but the way these trout get so big is because they are smart. They know which insects are hatching, the color and size they are, and how they float in or on the water. Knowing these key features is exactly what a guide is paid to do, so he or she had better be good at it or they will not make it in this business. When fishing these smart trout, you need to have everything perfect; a guide can definitely help to make this happen.
• Where to Fish: Trout have certain conditions that they prefer. Fishing in the right spot is a crucial factor to success on any trout water. Insects and other organisms that trout feed on collect in certain areas and this is where you will find big trout. A good Montana trout fly fishing guide will be able to put you in the right place at the right time
• Access: Getting to the trout waters is sometimes half the battle. Much of Montana's trout fishing is best accessed by a boat or by walking through private property. Not everybody has a boat and even if you do, it may not be feasible or possible to bring it. A guide will get you where you need to be one way or another.
• Equipment: Most guides will have a high quality fly fishing rod, reel and line set up for you to use that is designed to cast the flies you will be using and fight the fish you will be fishing for. It is very important that you use the right equipment as this will greatly improve you fly fishing efficiency.
• Knowledge: A Montana trout fly fishing guide will be able to offer clients so much more than just fishing advice. A good guide also knows the history, geology, anthropology, and stories that make this part of the world so interesting and beautiful.

Gear to Bring:

Montana is a demanding place, both in fly fishing gear and clothing alike. To make this the best trip possible it is advised that you come prepared for anything that Montana can throw at you. I have seen it snow in July, and I've lost several fish due to size that I was not expecting. Let's go over some items that you should not come to Montana without.

1. Fly Fishing Gear: Things you will need if not hiring a Montana Trout Fly Fishing Guide

• Fly Fishing Rod: It is very important that you bring a fly rod that is of high quality. The Wal-Mart combo set is not recommended and will lead to headaches and a far less successful trip. A well made fly rod is much easier to cast, more accurate, and stronger leaving you much less likely to break it. Two rules of thumb are: 1. Buy the best rod you can afford. 2. Only consider rods that offer a lifetime warranty. For more information on buying a fly rod and all other fly fishing gear mentioned here, click the link at the end of this article.
• Fly Fishing Line: Fly lines are a close second to the importance of a fly fishing set up right behind a quality fly rod. With fly fishing, you are casting the line which delivers the fly to where you want it. This means the line has to work with the rod. This is why it is advised to use a high quality line in addition to a nice rod. Also, you will want to be able to fish many different situations as the fish are not always willing to take an insect on the top. You may need to use a sink tip to get bait fish imitations to the fish so it is also wise to go with a line that has interchangeable tips of different sink rates from floating to fast sink.
• Fly Fishing Reel: a fly reel is less important and receives far less use than the line and rod, but a smooth drag system is very helpful if you hook into any trout 16 inches or more. It is not a good experience to lose a fish of a lifetime over a cheap piece of equipment. Again, it is suggested to buy the best reel you can afford, but if you must skimp on either a rod, reel, or line, this is the place to do it.
• Waders and Boots: These are an essential. Most Montana fly fishing is done at elevations well over 6000 feet making for cool mornings and cold water even in August. Having owned a couple pairs of cheap waders in my early fly fishing days, I can tell you how important a quality pair can be. Although they may cost twice as much, a quality pair can last 3 times as long before they start leaking in the seams and cutting in to your fun. Also, a good pair of wading boots is a must on the slippery rocks of almost all Montana Rivers. Good support and traction are what you should be after. There are many types of soles to choose from. A big push in Montana is rubber soles as opposed to felt in an effort cut down on transporting invasive aquatic organisms that can live in a felt sole that does not have time to dry out before using them in a second river system. Nearly all quality wading boot manufactures have come out with rubber soles designed to grip slippery rocks and many have removable cleats that can add a lot of stick to your traction. Check out the gear guide link at the end of this article to help you decide on all equipment you will need.
• Flies, leaders, tippets, floatant, and line cutters: These are all necessary if you are going to be your own Montana trout fly fishing guide. It is important to know how to tie all this together and what types of flies are effective during the time of your adventure. One would think a trout would take any fly that it sees, but even the small fish are smart and will mostly only take flies that match the insects that are hatching at the time.

2. Things to bring guide or not:

Hiring a Montana trout fly fishing guide will definitely cut down on the amount of gear you will need to pack as far as fly fishing equipment. Still there are several items that you will not want to leave home without that your guide will not provide, especially if you are not hiring one. Here is a quick list of items that should not be left home.

• Rain proof coat: have it ready too. The weather in these mountains can change in an instant from sunny and warm to cloudy, rainy, and sometimes even snow.
• Binoculars: the areas are home to some incredible wildlife and you never know what you are going to see. Deer, elk, big horn sheep, moose, wolf, coyote, bear, and many more species are all possible.
• Camera: Make sure you have one handy when you real in that fish of a life time. The surroundings are picture perfect as well.
• Sun Screen: The sun is intense at these altitudes and the rays will reflect off the water.
• Sun Glasses: Sunglasses are very helpful when spending all day on the river. Polarized sun glasses are recommended as they cut down on the glare coming off the water and enable a person to see through the water much better than with just regular sun glasses.

Handling of Montana Trout

All trout are very delicate. It is best not to touch them at all, but if you do need to take a picture, wet your hands before touching, take a quick photo, and get it back in the water. It is best to let it swim away as soon as it has the power to do so. Please do not caress it and rub its belly like you see them do on fishing shows. Get the trout out of your hand as soon as possible. Most of Montana requires Barbless hooks, but do it because it is the right thing to do as it is so much easier to remove the hook this way. Barbless hooks get a bad rap for loosing fish. I think it is more of an excuse. Many times that hook is going to come out barb or not, the key is to keeping the line tight. Many experienced fly fishermen including many Montana Trout fly fishing guides will agree that the barb actually makes it harder to get a good hook set on a fish because it has a wider shank to seat it firmly in the mouth tissue. The final argument against barbed hooks is the fact that it is not smart to have a barbed hook flying around your head, or any part of your body for that matter. A barbed hook in your eye is not a pretty sight. Just hope there is still have sight from that eye when you get back from the hospital.

Conclusion

No matter how many big Montana Trout you do or don't catch, you are sure to have a good time. Like I said before, the scenery alone is worth making a trip here. Typically my drive home to Idaho is spent planning out the next trip to Montana. Every time I make the trek to these legendary waters I am faced with not having enough time to fish all the water I would like to. That is because a lifetime is not enough time to fish all of this state. On the drive to Montana it always seems like I have more than enough time to be fishing, but before I know it, it is time to pack up and head for home. I guess time flies when you are having fun, luckily there are many more trips to come if I have things my way. I hope to see you all there, and please be respectful of the fish so we all can enjoy fly fishing Montana together for years to come.

Take the Right Gear

To make sure you are properly equipped with the right gear for fly fishing Montana, go to this gear guide where you will find advice on fly rods, lines, reels, waders, and all necessary gear related to fly fishing: http://onlineflyfishingguide.com/onlineflyfishinggearguide.html and click on the gear guide. For more information on hatches, river flows, and other important articles about fly fishing, click on this link: Montana Trout Fly Fishing Guide.

Bass are one of, if not the most popular fish in the Americas. Not only are they incredible fighters, but at least one species of bass can be found in almost any body of water from Canada, throughout the U.S. and into South America. Although not near as popular as bait casting and spin fishing, one of the best thrills in fishing is catching bass on a fly rod. Before you can do this though, you will need a Bass Fly Fishing setup. Here we will discuss the aspects that should be taken into account when choosing the best fly rod for bass, which is not as straight forward as it sounds! Bass come in many different sizes, strengths and species, and require different techniques for different situations. Let's take a look at these aspects and then you can go through the link at the end to my website where we will talk more about brands and models of fly rods for bass.

Size: what weight fly rod will be best for Bass?

Bass come in all different sizes that vary widely with respect to species. The species not only determines size, but also strength. For instance, a Small Mouth Bass has the ability to put up as much fight as some fish twice its size. This needs to be taken in to account when choosing the best fly rod for Bass. All bass start out small, but can grow to large sizes. Therefore it is suggested that you go with a bass fly rod that is designed for the larger end of the spectrum. You will not want to be weak in back bone when you need it. Here is a generic list of species and the weights that are recommended for each.

a Small Mouth Bass (0-8 lbs): 6-7wt

a Large Mouth Bass (0-10 lbs): 7-8wt

a Striper Bass, freshwater (5-15 lbs): 8-10wt

a Stripers Bass, Saltwater (10-30 lbs): 10wt

a Peacock Bass (3-20 lbs): 8-10wt

a Rainbow Bass (1-8 lbs): 8wt

Rod Action: determines how a rod casts.

When fly fishing for Bass, typically you will be using heavy flies that will take some back bone to get out of the water and to get any distance. A stiff, fast action fly rod will be able to best cast weighted flies, sink tips and wind catching poppers. If you go with a rod that is too soft, you will be struggling to get the fly out of the water.

Fly Lines for Bass:

Bass can be fished with many different methods. Different types of line will be needed to cover all tactics. For instance, when using top water poppers, a floating line will be needed. When using bait fish imitations, a sinking line will be the best to get the fly to the fish. For this reason it is best to use a line that can be used for multiple situations, which is a line that has interchangeable tips: floating with multiple sink tips for different sink rates. For more information on lines, follow the link at the end of this article.

Rod Quality:

Rod quality ranges widely. With increases in quality, obviously price will increase. There is a wide range in prices from the cheap Wal-Mart combo setup at $40 to a high end $700 dollar rod. There are two criteria I suggest everyone stick with for any rod for any fish. Number 1: buy the highest quality rod you can afford. Number 2: Make sure any rod you purchase comes with a lifetime warranty. To get a rod with a lifetime warranty, you will need to spend at least $200. It may sound like a lot, but it is worth it when you figure you will be making an investment to last a lifetime. You have probably broken a rod or several in the past, and most likely it will happen again whether it be on a fish or your car door. When choosing the best fly rod for bass, remember that you will be using hard to cast flies, so you the better the rod, the easier time you will have. Those spendier rods do work hard and are worth it if you can fit one into your budget.

Conclusion:

Several rod makers build rods that are designed for bass of all species. There are many different sizes to choose from, and they do get expensive, so you will want to make sure you go with the right Bass fly rod the first time. To narrow your search down to specific brands and models click here: www.OnlineFlyFishingGuide.com and then click on rods. Then click on the rod size is best for your situation. Click here to go to The Online Fly Fishing Guide.

A quiet morning, a small moving stream and the fish are biting. If this sounds like something you dream about, you are a fly fisherman at heart. So for those of you that are new to the sport, here is a little fly fishing guide to get you started. Even some of you fly fishing gurus might be able to get a little brush up here!

Fly fishing is alot more then just casting a line and wishing for the best. Many other things must be taken into account, i.e....the fly rod, the fly line, the fly reel, casting, a nd finally the tackle needed. I hope to cover all of this here in a very short amount of time for you.

The rod: Fly fishing rods come rated like 3-weight or 5-weight. All that means is that the rod will effectively cast that size line. Now this is not a scientific fact, but a 5-weight rod casts 5-weight line better than any other. In discussing fly fishing for beginners, a little experimentation is in order.

A trip to a fly shop will be good for that purpose, but you are going to see another aspect of the rod called "action". "Action" determines how soon the rod begins to bend. This is important to lure presentation as well as in certain conditions.

The line: There are many types of fly fishing line. All of them are designated by letters like "DT" (double taper) or "WFF" (weight forward floating), "WFS" (weight forward sinking) and a few others. Each has it's own applications.

For the most part, a DT or WF line is recommended by most fly fishing guides. Again, with fly fishing for beginners, the line is the most crucial part of your gear. A good line will cast well on the worst pole ever made.

The reel: This element can mean the difference between landing the fish of your dreams or watching your prize fish swim back into the depths from where it came.

Reels can cost anywhere from around $20 to thousands of dollars. The most important part of the reel? A good drag system that is adjustable. Without a drag system on the reel, you run the risk of running the reel out of line and damage can occur.

As a fly fishing guide line, get yourself a decent reel and load it with some GOOD line to match the rod.

Casting: Fly fishing for beginners wouldn't be complete without a word or two on casting. Start by moving the rod back and forth. The cast has two parts; the back cast and the front cast. On the back cast, the line will travel behind you. Then on the front cast, the line will unroll and travel out in front of you.

Practice this front/back casting and watch the line as it travels. Keep the line in a large "C" shape. When you have this down, start to tighten the shape into a "J" shape. This is THE method for fly fishing for beginners and is taught by many fly fishing guides as it is the main cast used in fly fishing.

Flys: This is the most important factor in fly fishing. If you are familiar with the water you are fishing then load up with flies that resemble the natural insects there.

On new rivers or lakes try match the flies you are using to any kind that seems to be on or in the water. Then match that as closely as possible from your fly arsenal.

It is always a good idea to research the water you are going to fish before you fish it, however this is not always possible so sometimes it is best to match the fly to the insects you see around you or ask a local where possible.

Fly fishing buzzers, tedious buzzers! Buzzers, there are lots of, ranging from epoxy buzzer and anorexic buzzer hybrids not counting the countless variants like Chew Buzzers and Shipman's Buzzers. Could they possibly be made better? During 1920's Dr Howard Alexander Bell developed some extremely good slim buzzers looking like the midge pupa for fishing on Blagdon water. Buzzers existed since early days of trout fishing. Any visitor to Scotland or if you go fishing in in Scotland will know those horrid times when huge numbers of buzzers swarm so heavily you cannot breathe without having them swallowed into your throat. The buzzer is a key ingredient in the staple diet among the still water trout , so, the buzzer is a vital fly aa. could Sandy improve a fly that could be in almost every fly fisherman's box - the uninteresting buzzer? Sandy thought so. This buzzer, Sandy's Blank Buster Buzzer, required a scientific approach which taxed their inventor Sandy over many years until their perfection.

The creation of new fishing flies can be a highly demanding exercise, requiring a scientific approach and sometimes even the creation of leading edge materials. Sandy Dickson is one of the clever fly tyers around, making huge demands of himself to constantly improve and innovate. Charles Jardine has said that Sandy is "One of the greatest innovators I have ever come across", a comment that Sandy is extremely proud of. Charles went on stating that Sandy's patterns are "completely divine". What more can anyone say? Could improvements on the boring buzzer be achieved?

Fisherman and fly Tyers everywhere argue about what creates the best fly, many experts will argue size, others will argue shape or colour or movement. Sandy decided upon the basic recipe for his buzzers:
1. Trigger point thoraxes specifically designed for different light conditions at different depths and at different times of day
2. Size- the buzzers had to look 'real' to trout, they had to make anorexic buzzers look fat but they had to be lifelike, ribbed but not like most of the horrific ribs found ona lot of buzzers today.
It took Sandy lots of experimenting with thread and materials to develop a new tying method for tying thread and materials making it much thinner than normal. The buzzers are tied utilizing a special technique that Sandy developed. Many tyers seeing these buzzers are unsure of how there're tied.

Sunlight Colors & Ultraviolet Light

Reading books from the 1960's for instance Clegg and Keen on fluorescence and the way colors change with different light conditions the very first consideration was colour of a buzzers trigger points. One colour is not going to work all day, so a range of buzzers needed creating. Science does give us indicators regarding a perfect colors to utilise in numerous conditions. Put simply, light is formed up simply of various colors, red, green and blue plus ultraviolet (which burns us!). For a lure to show up as red then red light lure sun needs to be hitting it, for the yellow lure yellow light has to be hitting it. It is a popular fact that colors change at depth with reds typically disappearing at 15' oranges and 30' yellows at 50'. Over a cloudy day the red may only penetrate 10 feet! So below 10 feet with a cloudy day the red colors for a fly will be black since the red rays from sun will not be reaching the fly! Which is why we never bother utilizing a brightly colored lures at depths in lakes like {Grafham Water and Rutland, there is just no point, the colors will not be visible for the trout.
However determining what colors are visible at various depths of water is mostly a science, an analysis from the physics of how light interacts with water particles and other light absorbing particles that could be present in the water we are fishing. Its never possible for a fisherman to consider a calculator to a lake, analyse what light absorbing particles are present within the water so see what colors are visible at depths. Sediment can absorb colors that may be visible at different depths, so peaty water and clean lake water may not allow similar fly to work on exactly the same depth during the same time of day!

Have you ever wondered why people say to make use of bright lures on bright days, and dark lures on dark days? Does it make sense now that you know something about light penetration? NO? O.K., let's try to explain. Firstly, bright colored lures are typically considered those belonging to the orange, red, green, and yellow variety; that happen to be best choice on those beautiful bright days. So if it's dark or cloudy, running bright colors has little effect because unless they are being run totally on the surface those colors are usually not visible. Why run dark lures on dark day then? Since the colors aren't going to show, it becomes a matter of contrast, lure action, and lure size, and dark lures contrast more effectively on dark days because they're darker to begin with. As an example an orange lure down deep might work, nonetheless it is really showing a soft brown where as a black lure is showing solid black and a hard edge.

Obviously there is the hidden colour in the sun's rays, the colors we cannot see, Infra Red and Ultra Violet lights. UV penetrates deeply into water, this provided a trick to making the Blank Buster Buzzers 'firing-up' its fluorescence when used at different times of the day. Ultraviolet penetrates the water all day so using fluorescent threads Sandy could maximize hitting power of the buzzers. Using highly fluorescent threads would help with making the flies attractive to trout.

The true science behind the Blank Buster Buzzers only comes to light when viewing them in a box under Ultraviolet light when the trigger spot glows. The range of colors for fluorescent materials of the flies developed in the scientific analysis - Scarlet, Hot Orange, fluorescent Green, luminous or Phosphor Yellow. However, the challenges still wouldn't stop however, first attempts at tying the thorax over the black silk body were fine but the colours simply didn't 'fire-up' their fluorescence as much as they should. The answer came watching pike fishermen. They were painting their floats white before painting Luminescent paint on them, Sandy investigated materials from China before he found his magical answer, a material now called Sandy's Thorax Magic, a white thorax backing material which when used behind the thorax tying really light up the colors giving just the right trigger that Sandy had been seeking on the Buzzers. Finally utilizing a black box he had made to research luminosity, a box with ultra-violet lights were utilized test the luminosity of various materials of the luminous buzzer and for breathers showed the Essential Fly Sparklemet, their Flashabou equivalent, this gave the high levels of luminosity that Sandy required. Two coats of varnish over the thorax only and the fresh buzzers were born from a variety of trials and failures.

First outing aided by the Blank Buster Buzzers Sandy and his testers at a Scottish Working Men's Anglers Club landed over 50 fish, experiments showed them being deadly. Even a really wary of trout may be tempted by Sandy's Blank Busters with the use of a long leader, often up to 20' in length with nothing more than just one Blank Buster Buzzer at the end. Essentially the most wary trout were regularly fooled by these superb buzzers in trials in Scottish and English using this long leader technique with a single buzzer. Most amusing of the tests was when a fisherman trying Sandy's buzzers off of a boat tied one to the point and dropped it over the side, he continued to tie in two droppers on an extremely long leader as instructed by Sandy. Unfortunately the point fly was hit quickly by a huge trout, dragging the droppers straight into the fisherman's hand. Expletives were shouted until the poor fisherman realized that he would never win!

The final variants were developed using Kamasan B100 grub hooks to present the ultimate skinny buzzer and thicker Kamasan B110 for specimen fish with the heavier guage hooks These trout flies proved to be deadly hence the name Blank Buster Buzzers. These trout flies are truly irresistible in tests prove very successful indeed. Surely they have to be an essential part of every Fisherman's fly Box?!

Blank Buster Buzzers are a trademark of The Essential Trout & Salmon Fly Company

One day, in my local tackle store, I'd been listening to some advice from the store keeper, when another customer, an old guy, took me to one side. He'd overheard me moaning about my lack of fishing skill and he offered to give me some advice on how to improve my skill on angling.

It does not matter if you're a complete beginner, or you just want to improve your fly fishing skill, I will Fast-Track Your Learning Curve, and if you follow just some of the techniques I'm about to show you, your skills will sky-rocket, and you will truly have no option but to succeed

Fish are caught by using artificial flies that are cast with a fly rod and a fly line. The fly line (today, almost always coated with plastic) is heavy enough in order to send the fly to the target.

The main differences between spinner and bait rods, which use heavy weight on the line to cast lures, bait, etc. Artificial flies can vary dramatically in all morphological characteristics (size, weight, colour, etc.).

Artificial flies are created by tying hair, fur, feathers, or other materials, both natural and synthetic, onto a hook with thread.

The first flies were tied with natural materials, but synthetic materials are now very popular and prevalent.

The flies are tied in sizes, colours and patterns to match local terrestrial and aquatic insects, baitfish, or other prey attractive to the target fish species.

There are a wide variety of Fly rods of different weights, lengths and material are used to present artificial flies to target species of fish as well as fight and land fish being caught.For general use there are a big variety of fly lines to use when fresh or saltwater fishing

A wide variety of general use and specialized fly lines are used to cast artificial flies under a wide variety of fresh and saltwater conditions.

Terminal tackle is used to connect the artificial fly to the fly line and allow the appropriate presentation of the fly to the fish.

You have a big choice of accessories-tools, gadgets, clothing and apparel used by the fly angler for maintenance and preparation of tackle, dealing the fish being caught as well as personal comfort and safety while fly fishing. Includes fly boxes used to store and carry artificial flies.If you would like even more information click here.......

http://LearnFlyFishingTacticsHere.blogspot.com

If you are new to the sport of fly fishing, then the first thing for you to do will be selecting a fly rod. Selecting a fly rod is not difficult, but is very important as there are many different sizes, lengths, and tapers to choose from. Many people think that all you need is a fly rod and that will cover all of your fly fishing needs, but that is not true.

There are several factors that will determine what fly rod you will want to buy, but to keep it simple we will focus on the three main factors: size, action, quality. To help you in selecting a rod, let's take a look at these factors and narrow you search down a bit so you can be confident that you are selecting the right fly rod so you can enjoy the sport and learn the fastest. If you are already familiar with what you are looking for, then go straight to our gear guide by clicking on the link at the end of the article.

Size

There are many different sizes of fish, so there are many different sizes of fly rods to choose from. The same rod that you use for trout will not be ideal for salmon, or vice versa. Fly rod size uses a scale from 1 - 15 and higher, and is denoted by weight (wt) where a 1wt is very light and for small fish and a 15wt is heavy and made for huge fish like Marlin and Sharks. Here is a generic list of fish and the rod size you will need for each. Most fish species vary in size, so your situation might be a little different but this will get you close.

2wt small trout, pan fish

4wt trout, pan fish

6wt bass, trout,

8wt steelhead, bass, saltwater

10wt salmon, steelhead, tuna, saltwater

12wt saltwater, dorado, sail fish

14wt saltwater, sail fish, marlin, shark

The most common rod size for a first fly rod is a 6wt, as it is light enough to cast dry flies to trout with delicacy, as well as cast bigger flies to bass and even steelhead, and has enough backbone to fight larger fish.
Action

Fly rods are designed with different Actions. This means they bend at different areas throughout the rod and make the line behave differently as a result. When selecting a fly rod, you will want to pay special attention to action because some are much easier to cast than others. Here is a list of the types of action you will choose from.

a Slow Action: whole rod bends when casting. Made for small streams and short casts.

a Medium Action: rod bends in the mid section of the rod. This is the easiest rod to cast but will lack the distance and accuracy of faster action rods.

a Fast Action: rod bends mostly at the tip. These rods are best suited for experienced casters and are built for high line speed good for long casts, accuracy, wind conditions, and casting large flies.

a There are also actions in between these actions such as medium slow, medium fast, and even very fast action (or whatever the fly rod manufacture wants to call it)

For a beginner, a medium action rod will be the easiest to cast, but will limit you once casting becomes comfortable. The solution is a rod between medium and fast, and is known as a medium fast action. This will give anybody the benefits of both and is my recommendation for a first fly rod. If you are selecting a fly rod designed for saltwater, then you will want to stick with a fast action rod as most likely you will be casting big flies and doing so in the wind.

Quality

When selecting a fly rod, a good thing to remember is that you get what you pay for. Sure, you can go to Wal-Mart and pick up a cheap combo set for under $50, but once you hold a quality rod in your hand you will probably end up with your own sooner than later. Fly Rods vary in price exponentially with quality. In other words, as quality goes up, price goes up even faster. Here are my two recommendations: Go with the best fly rod you can afford and buy a rod with a lifetime warranty. Any rod with a lifetime warranty is going to be of good quality and one that you will own for life. At some point you will break a rod and the warranty will come in handy. At my website, all rods that I recommend come with a lifetime warranty and the manufactures are very good about honoring them. To buy a rod with such a warranty you will need to spend around $200 or more, which is quite cheap considering a graphite rod can run up to $1000 + and a Bamboo Fly Rod can be over $3000.

Here is a list of the Benefits that you will have if you select a quality fly rod:
1. Easier casting
2. Light weight
3. Great feel
4. Lifetime warranty
5. Stronger than cheap rod
6. Long and accurate casting
7. Proud
8. Quicker learning curve

Selecting a Fly Rod

Now that you have an idea of size, action and quality of the fly fishing rod that you need to buy, it is time to narrow your search down to specific brands and models, which is another daunting task. For help picking out the exact rod you will be happy with for a lifetime, go to www.OnlineFlyFishingGuide.comwhere there is a complete gear guide designed to help you with selecting a fly rod, reel, line, and other fly fishing necessities. If you are considering purchasing your first fly rod, then good luck to you. You have many new experiences to come. I wish I had never caught a fish on a fly rod, just so I could do it for the first time all over again, although it is sure nice to be over the learning curve and soon, with the right gear and a little practice, you will be too.

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Parts of a Fly Fishing Rod

Author: Shareen Aguilar

First, although fly rods have different shapes and sizes; some are longer, heavier or more colorful than the others, the different parts of a rod doesn’t change at all. The important part of the rod is referred to the rod blank. It is the central shaft of the rod and it’s where everything, where the rest of the rod is attached. Rod blanks is also called the tip and then the heavy section is called the butt. Generally, blanks are made of graphite but there are still other materials that can be used.

Next is the reel seat. This is located at the butt of the rod. The purpose of this is for the fly reel; the rings found on this part are meant to lock the reel and the foot in place. The material used for reel seats can be either graphite or metal. Then we have the rod handle. This is located just right above the reel seat. This part of the rod also varies in different sizes and shapes. You can find different materials for this one. For more expensive rods, the usual material used on this part is made of rubber. But for the usual cases, (rods that are less expensive) cork is the more common material.

And lastly, the rod guides. These are attached to the rod blank. The purpose is to “guide” the fly line through them. As always, this part of the fly fishing rod varies in shapes too. You’ll also notice that the first guide is identical to the ones found on conventional fishing rods. What they are referred to as well is stripping guides. For the rest of the rod, the wire used is thin and it’s usually addressed as snake guides. The last guide found at the tip of the rod is called the tip top.

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